It contains information on setup, lubrication, maintenance, and adjustments.
The manual covers how to properly mount the Atlas lathe and motor on a bench. I assumed it was bad bearings, but when I did a search someone mentioned something about 'tuning' the headstock to. When I go to take cuts, the entire workpiece lifts probably 10 thou. So far so good, except that the headstock has a LOT of play in it. I was told by Scott Henion on the Atlas Craftsman group that if I looked at the bearing races, I could find out what year my lathe was put together. Number of Pages: 21 This is a reproduction, not a photocopy, of an Atlas 12 Bench Top Metal Lathes for Models 39 Instructions and Parts Manual. Im borrowing a friends 618 lathe in return for me getting it all cleaned up and working well. Last edited by David Utidjian 06-01-2009 at 02:47 AM. Once the spindle was flush with the left side bearing, I switched to using this and tapping with a medium ball peen hammer. The manual calls that bearing a "safety valve" (sheesh.) the damn thing is designed to break that part.
The makers plate on the right hand end of the lathe shows that it has the serial number 029920. My Rockwell 10" has instructions for making the shear pins in the manual.*/ĮTA: Ignore everything between the /* */ above I just looked it up in an Atlas manual I have. This is an Atlas 10 lathe with the model number TV36 indicating it has taper bearings in the headstock with a vertical countershaft and a 36 bed length. The shear pin would be at the other end of the leadscrew and is usually even easier to replace. Most lathes in that class have shear pin. I am not familiar with the Atlas/Craftsman lathes but I would hope that it has a better method as a "fuse" for the leadscrew than breaking the bearing bracket. If you have a 4-jaw chuck you could even make it on your lathe. I would fuss and make it from cast iron with bronze bushings.
(The bearing I spoke of in my previous post is a spare that came with a box of spare headstock and spindle parts I had purchased some time back.) Instead of the 10D-61 thrust bearing it has a solid steel spacer. Unfortunately, if the class was printed on the box, you couldn't really trust it unless you could somehow confirm that both the box and the contents actually came from Timken./*It looks like it would be pretty easy to make one from a solid block of cast iron or bearing bronze. qanthony87: Thinking about this further my 12' Atlas/Craftsman lathe it does not have the 10D-61 Thrust Bearing. Last that I had heard, Timken was one of the few US manufacturers still making anything in the USA. And unless you were buying several hundred sets, probably you would have to buy them directly from Timken.
Ive scrubbed it down with naptha and a wire brush. New Steady Rest Jaws / Fingers with Roller Bearings for Craftsman Model 101 and Atlas 618 6 Lathes. I am just cleaning up my newly acquired Craftsman Atlas 12x36 lathe. And I would guess that you would have to buy the cup and cone as a matched set. Atlas 618 / Craftsman 101 6 Lathe Steady Rest Jaws / Fingers with Bearings. I would seriously doubt that the hand engraving that was done in the 30's, 40's and early 50's would be done today. I do know that a Class number could only be assigned (or more correctly, any number assigned could only be valid ) if the cup and cone were purchased together. ATLAS CRAFTSMAN 10-12 Lathe Timken Bearings, Headstock Dust Covers, Collars - 62.19. I haven't heard of any of the spindle bearing in the Clausing badged lathes that were so marked. Atlas / Craftsman 9, 10 & 12 Lathe Steady Rest Jaws / Fingers with Bearings. I know that around 1952/3, Atlas on their Atlas badged product quit having Timken engrave the inspection dates on the spindle bearings.
I don't know whether the cup and cone would be marked or not.